The Country Women’s Association has long informed kitchens across the nation with home-style recipes, traditional dishes, preserves and baked goods, and while elevated CWA may not be a food category, it should be. Case in point: at Esmay – which opened quietly in Adelaide at the tail end of 2025 – executive chef Alanna Sapwell-Stone tiptoes the line between comfort and creativity with all the balance of a culinary tightrope walker.