I’ve never been a huge fan of flowers in cooking. My mum is an objectively excellent cook but she made one dish when I was growing up that I refused to eat: a tuna casserole flavoured, inexplicably, with lavender. Poison via pot pourri. Rose flavour, too, can easily tip into ‘grandma’s toilet freshener’, unless applied by a very careful and ideally Turkish, Middle Eastern or Yunnanese hand. So of course when I see roses on the menu at Alanna Sapwell-Stone’s new Adelaide restaurant, Esmay, I’m ordering them. I’m obtuse like that.